Christmas traditions in Provence: between family celebrations and unique festivities
Every season has its charm in Provence
But if there is one time of the year when we particularly love this region, it’s at Christmas. What a joy to see old customs mingle with more recent festivities! Altogether, it forms a unique experience that makes December a month full of celebrations in the South. This is what we want to share with you today. We take you to the heart of Christmas traditions in Provence.
Christmas traditions in Provence within families
Clearly, there are two types of Christmas traditions in Provence: those experienced at home that strengthen family bonds, and those that animate the region. Let’s start with the first.
Preparing a Provençal Christmas according to tradition
In Provence, Christmas is not limited to the festivities around December 25. And it’s no exaggeration to say that we devote the entire last month of the year to it. Traditional Provençal Christmas begins on December 4 with a regional ritual.
Saint Barbara
Most Christmas traditions in Provence are linked to Christianity. Saint Barbara is a tangible example. Every December 4, Provençals place wheat grains in three small bowls (representing the Trinity), hoping they will sprout. Three weeks later, by Christmas, strong shoots indicate a good harvest to come. The three bowls are displayed on the table for the Gros Souper, which we will discuss later in this article.
The santons of Provence
According to tradition, the nativity scene should be set up in homes on the Sunday before Christmas. In earlier times, the nativity scene of ancestors was passed down from generation to generation—a tradition that is fading, as everyone wants their own nativity. One habit that remains is adding a new santon or accessory each year.
Speaking of the santons of Provence! Did you know that their creation is linked to the French Revolution? Here’s why. In 1793, revolutionaries closed churches to weaken the power of the clergy. People, no longer able to see nativity scenes in religious buildings, decided to create miniature versions at home. The figures were made of bread dough or papier-mâché and were called “little saints”—santouns in Provençal, which later became “santon.” The profession of santonnier was established by sculptor Louis Lagnel, who noticed one winter evening in 1798 that the clay stuck to his shoes could be shaped into santons.
Back to the nativity scene: although it is linked to Christianity, it is not composed only of religious elements. It depicts the Nativity scene but also old trades and important figures from Provençal history. Accessories, as essential as the santons themselves, include:
- Provençal hills;
- Plants (mainly boxwood and cypress) representing the renewal of the winter solstice;
- Flowers, berries, and aromatic plants, symbolizing purity;
- Water to recall baptism;
- The star, an angel, a light, and the wheat from Saint Barbara.
Christmas Eve in Provence
After the preparation comes the celebration. In Provence, Christmas Eve holds a special place in the festivities. Let’s see what it involves.
The cacho-fio
Celebrated in Provence according to a specific ritual, this ceremony is also found in other regions of France. In the South, it goes as follows:
- In autumn, a log from a fruit tree is left to dry in the sun;
- On the evening of December 24, the youngest and oldest family members carry the log, making three turns around the table or house;
- The log is placed in the fireplace and sprinkled with wine;
- An incantation is pronounced;
- The ashes from last year’s cacho-fio are added to the hearth;
- The fire is lit with an olive branch.
This custom extends beyond Christmas, as the log is relit every evening until New Year’s Day. The ashes are kept until the following Christmas to protect against fires.
Setting the Christmas Eve table
Traditionally, in Provence, the Christmas table is covered with three tablecloths, symbolizing the Trinity. Sprouted wheat, three candles, and fine tableware are placed. In the spirit of the holiday’s generosity, a seat is kept for the poor.
The Gros Souper
This is the nickname given to the Christmas meal in Provence. The word “gros” refers not to the heaviness of the dishes (which are usually meatless) but to their number. For a successful Provençal Christmas, it is customary to plan an extended menu to symbolize abundance.
The Provençal tradition of 13 Christmas desserts
The sweet-toothed will love this tradition, while the curious will want to know the story behind the 13 Provençal desserts. As mentioned earlier, Christmas traditions in Provence are linked, directly or indirectly, to religion. The number 13 refers to Christ’s last supper, representing Jesus and the 12 apostles.
Here is the list of the 13 Provençal desserts for a traditional Christmas meal:
- Pompe à huile (a type of olive oil focaccia);
- Black nougat;
- White nougat;
- Dates;
- Mandarins or oranges;
- Winter melon (less common today);
- Grapes;
- Pears;
- Candied fruits or quince paste;
- Dried figs;
- Raisins;
- Almonds;
- Walnuts or hazelnuts.
The list may vary depending on the city or family.
📌 Now that you are fully immersed in the Christmas spirit, why not make it even more festive? Book at our campsite before January 15, 2025, and enjoy up to 15% off during Early Booking!
Christmas festivities in Provence
It’s impossible to miss the Christmas spirit in December in our beautiful region. It is simply everywhere. Here’s how it manifests.
Christmas nativity scenes in Provence
After discussing nativity scenes in homes, let’s look at those displayed around the region in December. Some are larger versions set up in churches or other buildings. Others are live performances. Here are the ones you shouldn’t miss at the end of 2024.
The Gassin nativity scene
Visit the tourist office of this charming village in the Var. From December 8, 2024, to February 2, 2025, a Neapolitan nativity scene by artist Christian Léandre Ganga will be on display. A true feast for the eyes!
The life-size nativity scene in Villars
Our campsite, Les Chênes Blancs, is in the heart of the Luberon. During your stay, there’s plenty to see nearby, including the famous ochres of the Colorado Provençal. In the midst of these spectacular cliffs, the village of Villars will present a Nativity scene exhibition.
📌 Our group also owns another campsite in the Luberon. You have no excuse not to discover this beautiful region of France.
Santon fairs and Christmas markets
Christmas markets appear all over France in December, and our beautiful Vaucluse department is no exception. Provençal Christmas markets are similar to those elsewhere, with the bonus of excellent gastronomy. Often, people visit as much for gifts as for tasting local treats.
📌 Looking for a Christmas market in the Vaucluse? Check out this list.
In addition to Christmas markets, santon fairs appear in mid-November. As the name suggests, they are dedicated to the figures and accessories that decorate nativity scenes. From tiny santons to larger ones, there’s something for everyone.
Live performances linked to Christmas traditions
Earlier, we mentioned the living nativity of Villars. Many other performances animate our beautiful Provençal villages at Christmas. Here are two of them.
The Cacho-fio of Séguret
In this Vaucluse village, you can attend a public version of the Cacho-fio on December 24, followed by the show “Mystère des Bergers de Séguret,” presenting three Nativity tableaux. A midnight mass in Provençal concludes the evening.
The shepherds of Les Baux-de-Provence
In our neighboring village of Les Baux-de-Provence, in the Alpilles (near our campsite La Vallée Heureuse), pastoral traditions are highlighted at Christmas. Every school holiday day, the flock of sheep and ewes crosses the village to reach the church square and its nativity scene backdrop. It’s a great opportunity to talk to the shepherds about transhumance.
Our tour of Christmas traditions in Provence ends here. We hope it inspires you to discover our beautiful region. Even though our campsite cannot host you during Christmas, we want to give you a gift and make your holiday season more festive. Book at our campsite before January 15, 2025, and enjoy up to 15% off during Early Booking!
Sources :
https://www.ventouxprovence.fr/actualites/traditions-de-noel-en-provence.html
https://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/fr/nos-idees-sejours/noel-dans-les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france/noel-en-provencehttps://www.provenceguide.com/les-tops-du-vaucluse/comment-fete-t-on-noel-en-provence-traditions-et-fetes-provence-guide/https://www.laprovence.com/article/region/2022036656652115/dans-le-pays-dapt-trois-creches-brillent-par-leur-originalite-et-leur-grandeur